Monster model assembly guide
Step 1 - examine contents
Your first step is to open the box and verify all the parts are there. You want to make sure to round up any parts that have detached from the sprue. Look over the instruction sheet and compare it to what is in the box. Go ahead and familiarize yourself with the basic assembly of the model.
step 2 - wash parts
It is important to gently wash your parts in warm soapy water. You can wash them on the sprue, being careful not to detach or lose anything down the drain. Washing them gets rid of any mold release agents left on the plastic, which will keep your paint from sticking to the model properly. Allow the parts to dry thoroughly.
Step 3 - detaching pieces
Now that your parts are clean and dry, it is time to start removing them from the sprue. Only remove the parts as you need them. You should remove parts from the sprue with a hobby knife or side cutters (nippers). To use a hobby knife, place your sprue down on a cutting mat and press down firmly with he where the sprue meets the part and sheer it off. With nippers, place the flat side as close to the part as possible and nip it right off. Either way, you will want to sand the spot where you detached the part.
Your first urge may be to twist the plastic back and forth until the part pops off, but that often results in porous holes or missing plastic that needs to be filled and sanded later.
step 4 - cleaning up mold lines and flash
Once a part is removed from the sprue, it often requires some level of cleanup. Mold lines are small ridges that can be seen running the length of a part and are where the two halves of the injection mold meet. They can usually be removed by shaving them off with your hobby knife. Flashing is where plastic has escaped between the molds and is best removed with a hobby knife, files, and sand paper.
Step 5 - assembly strategy
Before you start assembling the model, you want to familiarize yourself with the parts and instructions. Once assembled, some parts of the model may be difficult to reach to paint properly. Therefore, it is often beneficial to build and paint individual sections of the model and then assemble them. You should have an assembly strategy before you start gluing parts together.
step 6 - glueing
Styrene kits should be assembled with plastic cement. The ubiquitous Testor’s plastic cement is fine, but there are many other options available. Before gluing a part together, you want to test fit it and make sure you know exactly where and how it is going together. Once you have confirmed fit and placement, apply glue sparingly to one surface and then hold parts together tightly for 20 seconds or so.
Step 7 - Puttying seams
In order to get a more finished appearance, it is helpful to putty and sand the seams between parts. I use Aves Apoxie Sculpt, but there are many options. When you have a seam, roll a little “snake” of putty and lay it in the gap. Fill it in as best you can. A set of small sculpting tools is helpful in shaping the putty, but a paper clip or the end of a paint brush will do in a pinch. Do this to all seams that will be visible once the model is assembled. Once the putty is cured, you can move on to sanding. This is best done with various grit sandpapers, files, and emery boards. Be careful not to destroy any detail on the model. Give your model a good dusting or a shot with compressed air once you are done sanding.
step 8 - priming
Before you can paint your model, you have to prime it. This enables your paints to stick to the plastic properly. Skipping this step can result in paint beading up on your model or rubbing off easily once dry. The easiest way to prime your model is with a spray can of automotive primer. I prefer Rustoleum grey primer, but there are plenty of options. Before priming your parts, you will need to mask off any areas that will be glued. Masking tape works great, as does painter’s tape or silly putty. Take you parts to a well ventilated outdoor area for priming. Apply several light coats of primer from different angels, allowing to dry between each coat. Make sure to cover all surfaces. If you don’t wish to use a spray can, primers are available for air brush or paint brush.
Once you prime your model, you will most likely notice some mold lines or gaps you missed. They really stand out at this stage. Go ahead and putty and sand any imperfections. Once you are happy prime that spot again.
On to painting!
OK… You should now have your model assembled in sections, primed and ready for painting. In the next section, we will discuss basic techniques to get whatever model you are working on painted up and looking good!
